Do pest control

Skip the foggers. Those pressurized cans that promise to blast insects into oblivion? They rarely solve the root issue and often create more problems–chemical residues, fire hazards, and irritated pets. Spot treatments with targeted applications work far better. Choose products with clear labels that indicate low toxicity for indoor use and avoid anything that feels vague or too broad-spectrum.

Seal the entry points first. Before applying anything, check for the obvious: torn window screens, gaps around baseboards, door thresholds with daylight peeking through. Block them off. Silicone caulking and weather stripping are cheap and make a noticeable difference. It’s surprising how many insects you stop just by doing this. Plus, it keeps your heating bill down.

If you’re using baits–ant gels, for instance–don’t spray over them. The residual spray repels the colony, which means they’ll avoid the bait entirely. It sounds counterintuitive, but less interference often leads to better results. Place the bait, leave it alone, and give it time. If there’s no activity after a few days, either the placement is wrong or the product isn’t what the colony’s after. Try a protein-based option instead of sweet, or vice versa.

Protect your lungs, skin, and eyes–every time. Even if the product says it’s “natural,” it’s still something meant to kill. Use gloves. Wear a basic N95 mask if there’s any dust or spray involved. Crack open a few windows and keep pets away until everything dries. There’s a reason even garden-grade treatments come with safety warnings. Ignoring them, even once, isn’t worth it.

For anything involving rodents, use snap traps inside sealed boxes. Don’t just leave them out in the open. Aside from being a hazard to children or pets, unprotected traps get messy fast–blood, fur, sometimes worse. A box also helps contain the smell if you’re not checking it daily (and honestly, most people forget).

Last point: if it feels like you’re doing the same treatment every month, something’s off. Repeating without results usually means there’s a source you’re not seeing–an open food container under a sink, a bird feeder too close to the house, or poor ventilation in a crawl space. Make a list of possible contributors and tackle them one by one. You won’t solve it all at once, but small adjustments often tip the scale.

Seal Entry Points Immediately

Check the foundation, windows, doors, vents–anywhere light or air sneaks in. Use silicone caulk for gaps under ½ inch wide; anything larger needs expandable foam or weather stripping. Hardware cloth works for larger holes, especially around pipes or attic vents. I once missed a tiny gap under the siding–barely the width of a pencil–and spent weeks dealing with trail ants. Lesson learned: don’t guess. Use a flashlight at night from inside the house. If light escapes, so can something else.

Garage doors often get overlooked. If daylight seeps under the bottom edge, swap in a new rubber seal. Even a worn-out door sweep lets in more than you’d expect. For basement windows, wire mesh behind window wells helps–especially in older homes where the concrete has settled. Keep tree branches trimmed back too; some critters use them like highways. Think of it like waterproofing–just for movement instead of moisture.

Check Entry Points from Inside Walls and Attics

Seal gaps around plumbing, electrical lines, and HVAC ducting with steel wool or copper mesh before applying caulk or foam. Rodents chew through foam easily–metal filler slows them down or stops them entirely. Don’t just look under sinks. Crawl into attics or check utility closets where wiring enters. If you’re uncomfortable doing that, use a flashlight and a mirror to inspect tight spaces.

It’s tempting to skip over wall voids or ceiling access points. Don’t. Mice and insects often follow insulation or conduit routes. Where two materials meet–wood and concrete, say–there’s often a hidden void. Run your hand along the edges. If you feel a draft, it’s an access point.

Don’t rely only on visible gaps. Use talcum powder or fine flour along baseboards and attic beams to reveal tracks the next morning. This trick works well near wall vents and behind appliances.

It’s not just about closing gaps–it’s about closing the right ones. Miss a spot behind the fridge or near your breaker panel, and you’ll wonder why your traps stay empty but noises continue. Always check twice. Once during the day, then again after dark with a flashlight. Some things you only notice under certain lighting.

Store Chemicals in Original Containers Only

Always leave insecticides and rodenticides in their original packaging. The container is designed to prevent leaks, has proper warnings, and includes precise application instructions. Transferring them into other bottles–especially ones meant for food or drink–can lead to dangerous mix-ups or chemical reactions. It’s not worth the risk.

Keep everything tightly sealed, upright, and out of reach. A high shelf in a locked utility cabinet works well. Garages get too hot; basements might be damp. Either can compromise the product or make it more volatile. Read the label every time before use–yes, even if you’ve read it before. Details can change, or you might notice something you missed last time.

If the label is damaged or unreadable, don’t guess. Call the manufacturer or dispose of the product through a local hazardous waste program. Guesswork has no place here, especially when kids or pets are around.

Choosing the Right Approach to Address Your Specific Pest Issue

Start by identifying what you’re actually dealing with–ants, mice, cockroaches, wasps… they all behave differently. A mouse slipping under your garage door at night isn’t the same as carpenter ants tunnelling through damp wood. Each intruder has its own routine, nesting habits, and preferred hiding spots. That changes how you respond.

For example, if you’re seeing ants trailing in the kitchen, resist the urge to just spray them. That might scatter the colony and make things worse. Instead, use a bait with boric acid or abamectin near their entry points. Let them take it back to the nest. That’s where the actual problem lives.

Mice? Traps are better than poison in most Calgary homes, especially with kids or pets around. Place them perpendicular to walls, baited with peanut butter. You’ll want to block off holes with steel wool and seal gaps around pipes too–don’t just treat the symptom.

Don’t Guess–Check

Sticky traps and motion cameras are helpful if you’re unsure what’s coming in. A few nights of tracking can show where they’re active. If you skip this and just go straight to spraying or baiting blindly, you might miss the real issue entirely.

Timing and Season Matter

In spring and summer, insects are usually more active. You might be dealing with nests nearby rather than indoor breeding. In that case, exterior perimeter treatment makes more sense than chasing them inside. In winter, rodents tend to move in for warmth, so check attics, garages, and basements more thoroughly. Context shapes the plan.

Bottom line? Tailor your response. One-size-fits-all rarely works. Observe first. Then choose your tools. It’s slower, but better than treating the wrong thing or the wrong way.

Choose Non-Chemical Alternatives First

Skip the spray–at least at the beginning. Start with exclusion techniques like sealing cracks with silicone caulk or steel wool. Pay close attention to gaps around pipes, vents, and doors. A 6 mm gap under a door? That’s enough space for a mouse to squeeze through.

Try traps before anything toxic. Snap traps for rodents, glue boards for crawling insects, or light traps for flying nuisances. But be selective–overusing glue traps can be inhumane and messy. Set just a few, and check them often.

Physical barriers work better than most assume

• Install door sweeps and weather stripping to block entry points.
• Use fine mesh (1 mm or smaller) over vents and weep holes.
• Place food in airtight containers, not just rolled-up bags.
• Vacuum regularly, especially under appliances and along baseboards.

Skip the DIY cocktails

Mixing household cleaners with vinegar or ammonia doesn’t boost results–it risks toxic fumes. If you’re unsure about a product, call a certified technician. They’ll know what’s legal to use in Calgary, and what’s just hype.

Wear Protective Gear Before Using Any Chemical Treatments

Always put on nitrile gloves before handling any spray, bait, or powder. Latex might seem fine, but it’s not resistant to solvents or oils in many formulas. Eye protection isn’t optional either – goggles with side shields can stop drift or splashes that sting like crazy and could cause long-term damage. A half-face respirator with P100 filters? That’s not overkill – some residuals linger in the air longer than you’d expect, especially in poorly ventilated areas.

Skip cotton shirts. They absorb liquids and vapours fast. A disposable Tyvek suit or something similar keeps the product off your skin and washes off easily if needed. If you’re using aerosols or dust in tight spaces – under appliances, in wall voids – a head covering is a smart call too. Same for closed shoes; open footwear leaves you wide open to exposure, and you might not notice until too late.

Extra Tips

• Remove watches, rings, or bracelets – they trap chemicals against the skin.
• If you’re reusing gear, wash it separately from regular laundry. Twice, if it smells like anything at all.
• Never touch your face or phone during application. You’ll forget you did, but your skin won’t.
• Have soap and cool water ready nearby. Not just for after – you might need it during.

Knowing When DIY Methods Are Safe and When Expert Help Is Needed

Skip store-bought sprays if the issue covers more than one room, or if you’re dealing with things like carpenter ants, termites, or anything nesting inside walls. These situations escalate quietly and tend to spread before you notice them.

If it’s just a couple of house spiders or some sugar ants trailing to a crumb under the sink–go ahead and handle it yourself. Use sealed containers, vacuum regularly, and plug small gaps with silicone caulk. But if you’ve tried those steps for a week or two and activity doesn’t drop? That’s a sign things are deeper than surface-level.

• Rodents: Hearing scratching at night or finding droppings in multiple areas? Don’t wait. Traps can help short-term, but mice or rats multiply fast. Miss one entry point, and you’ll be back where you started.
• Wasps or hornets: Nest near a window or door? That’s risky. Store sprays only work when you catch them early–and from a safe distance. Once nests grow larger or hidden in siding, calling someone becomes the smarter choice.
• Bed bugs: Spotting even one? DIY rarely works. Heat treatments and precise detection matter. Misjudging the extent leads to bigger costs later.
• Reactions: If you or someone in your home reacts badly to bites or chemicals, that alone is reason enough to stop trying store products and call someone trained.

One rough rule: if you’re not seeing progress within 5–7 days, or if the situation worsens–more visible droppings, more movement during the day, stronger odours–it’s probably no longer manageable with off-the-shelf fixes. You could keep trying, sure, but it’s worth asking: at what cost to your time, budget, or peace of mind?

Minimise Risks When Using Chemical Treatments Indoors

Ventilate the area thoroughly before, during, and after application. Open windows, turn on fans–anything that gets the air moving helps. Even with “low-odour” formulas, particles linger longer than expected.

Store products in a locked cabinet, away from food or medicine. Never repurpose containers; clear labelling prevents accidents. If the original label is damaged or missing, replace it immediately with a legible version.

Wear gloves. Not the thin food prep kind–nitrile or heavy-duty rubber is better. A mask isn’t overkill either, especially if you’re working in tight spaces. People sometimes think they’ll be “in and out in a minute,” but that’s rarely how it goes.

Skip application near aquariums or vents. These spots act like distribution hubs for fumes. Cover any exposed food or utensils even if they’re not in the treatment zone. Overspray doesn’t care about your kitchen boundaries.

If you have pets, restrict access to treated areas until surfaces are completely dry. Dogs will lick anything. Cats walk through everything. Then they groom themselves. It doesn’t take much residue to trigger a reaction.

Double-check re-entry times. It’s easy to forget when you’re trying to get dinner going or just want your living room back. Set a timer if you have to. Better safe than itchy or dizzy.

Minimize Indoor Exposure After Application

Keep all windows open for at least 2–3 hours after treatment to allow airborne residues to dissipate. Fans help too. If you have pets, especially birds or reptiles, move them to a well-ventilated room away from the treated zones. Same goes for children–don’t let them crawl or play on floors or baseboards for at least 24 hours, maybe longer if it smells strong or feels damp.

Don’t wipe surfaces right away. Wait at least 48 hours unless the technician said otherwise. Premature cleaning reduces the staying power of the treatment. That said, if residue is clearly visible on food prep areas, wipe it using gloves and a mild detergent, but only after a few hours have passed.

• Ventilate with fans and open doors if odours persist the next morning.
• Avoid mopping treated floors unless instructed, especially near baseboards.
• Use a mask and gloves if you need to re-enter treated rooms early.

I once skipped the ventilation part, thinking it wasn’t a big deal. Woke up with a scratchy throat and regretted it. It’s easy to underestimate just how long residue lingers in still air.

Applying Chemical Solutions Without Risking Pets, Kids, or Greenery

Keep animals and children out of treated areas for at least 4 to 6 hours–longer if the label recommends it. Ventilate indoor spaces well. Open windows, run fans, and avoid closed rooms where fumes can linger.

Stick with spot treatments whenever possible. Broad spraying increases the chance of contact with unintended surfaces–soil, toys, food bowls, you name it. A precision applicator or gel bait can stay exactly where you put it, out of reach and less likely to leach into garden beds.

Read the product label all the way through. Yeah, it’s tedious, but the “safe once dry” message is often buried under application rates and mixing ratios. Some products remain active on surfaces for days, especially on porous materials like wood or concrete.

Use barriers. A bit of cardboard or a plastic shield goes a long way when applying liquids near grass or flower beds. For indoor use, cover nearby pet beds, carpets, or toys with cloth you can wash later–or better, remove them completely for the day.

If there’s any doubt, call your vet or your kid’s doctor with the product ingredients. They’ve usually had a few panicked calls before and can tell you quickly if your choice is safe–or not ideal. And if the label says “keep out of reach,” assume it means your tomato vines too, not just the dog bowl.

Finally, don’t rely on memory. Mark treated zones with painter’s tape or sticky notes. If someone else walks into the space later, they need to know what’s been done, especially if it still smells slightly off or feels damp to the touch.

Store Chemicals Away from Food and Children

Always keep any substance used for insect or rodent treatment in a sealed container, away from kitchens, pantries, and anywhere kids can reach. Even so-called “natural” solutions can cause skin irritation or worse if misused. Don’t rely on cupboard height alone – curious toddlers climb.

Place sprays, powders, and bait traps in a locked cabinet or on a high shelf inside a closed utility closet. If you’re treating a home with pets, add a childproof latch; cats and dogs push doors open more easily than you’d think.

Never reuse original containers

Once you’ve emptied a product, don’t refill the bottle with anything else. Some of those labels fade quickly, and it’s easy to forget what was inside. Rinsing doesn’t always remove residue either. It’s safer to dispose of it through your local hazardous waste program – Calgary has several collection points for this.

Check labels before buying

If it doesn’t say “keep out of reach of children,” that’s a red flag. Trust only those with clear storage instructions and expiry dates. And if you’re unsure how long something’s been sitting in your shed, you’re better off tossing it than guessing.

Wear Protective Gear While Treating Infested Areas

Before applying any substances, put on gloves made of nitrile or rubber–not latex. Latex can degrade quickly when exposed to chemicals. Add a long-sleeved shirt and pants you’re not attached to; some sprays can stain or leave an odour. A basic respirator is a good idea, especially in enclosed spaces. Not a dust mask, a real one with filters rated for organic vapours.

If you’re using granular bait or powders, safety goggles are a must. The fine particles linger in the air longer than you’d think. I learned that the hard way treating a crawlspace–eyes itched for hours.

For applications in attics, under decks, or other tight spots, knee pads and a headlamp come in handy. That’s less about safety and more about not being miserable halfway through.

Quick Reference for Protective Equipment

It might feel excessive at first, especially for a few ants or a mouse trap, but over time, those minor exposures can add up. Better to suit up than guess what’s “probably fine.”

Natural Alternatives That Actually Work

Seal off entry points first. Tiny gaps under doors or cracks in windows can be enough. Use copper mesh for larger openings–it holds up better than foam or steel wool. Caulking around baseboards helps too, especially in older homes.

Then focus on making the environment less welcoming. Diatomaceous earth is useful indoors–dust it lightly behind appliances, along walls, inside cupboards. It scrapes the outer layer of soft-bodied intruders, causing dehydration. It’s safe for pets if used in dry, low-traffic spots.

Sticky traps help monitor activity, especially near the kitchen or basement. Not perfect, but good for seeing what’s around without chemicals. Rotate them weekly–dust builds up and they stop working.

Outside, neem oil spray deters leaf-eaters. Works best in the evening, when the sun’s down. Combine with a few drops of dish soap to help it stick to foliage. Repeat every 7–10 days if rain washes it off.

• Grow basil, lavender, or mint near doorways and windows–they confuse scent trails.
• Keep bird feeders away from the house. Spilled seeds attract mice.
• Compost? Keep it sealed and turn it often. Heat helps discourage nesting.

If there’s already an issue inside, vacuum daily for a while. Especially carpets and corners. It sounds tedious, but it really reduces numbers over time. Just remember to empty the vacuum outside immediately–don’t let them crawl back out.

Close Off Entry Points First

Seal gaps around windows, door frames, vents, and pipes using silicone caulking or steel wool, depending on the type of breach. Don’t wait until there’s a problem–this step should come first, even before setting traps or using sprays. Rodents only need a gap the size of a dime to get through. That’s surprisingly small. I once found a trail of droppings leading to a barely visible crack behind my stove–turned out, it was just enough for a mouse to squeeze in.

For basements or older homes in Calgary, double-check the foundation. Small shifts in structure often create new access points that go unnoticed. Expandable foam can help, but don’t rely on it alone–it’s easy to chew through. If you’re sealing something larger, like an attic vent, mesh wire works better. Always choose something they can’t bite or push through. If there’s airflow involved (like in dryer vents), go with metal screens that don’t block ventilation but still keep intruders out.

This part takes time, sure, but skipping it makes everything else less reliable. You’re basically setting yourself up to repeat the same work again later.

Check Weather Conditions Before Applying Treatments

Apply substances only when the forecast shows no rain or strong winds for at least 24 hours. Moisture can wash active ingredients off surfaces, making them less useful–or worse, spreading them into places you didn’t mean to treat. Wind can carry sprays where you don’t want them, like onto vegetable gardens or neighbour’s patios.

It’s usually better to apply early in the morning or late evening, especially during summer. Midday sun can break down certain solutions quickly, reducing how long they last. Plus, some ingredients evaporate faster when it’s hot, which might leave you thinking you used too little when you actually lost most of it to the air.

If you’re using granular products, dry grass helps them settle without sticking to damp blades. On the other hand, a light dew can help them stay put–but that’s a bit of a gamble. Personally, I’ve had better results waiting until everything’s fully dry, then watering the lawn just enough afterward to activate the granules without flooding them away.

Don’t trust the weather app blindly. Clouds can build fast in Calgary. If it *looks* like rain, hold off. You’ll waste less time, and probably fewer materials too.

Proper Storage and Disposal of Control Products

Keep containers sealed tight and upright, away from sunlight, food, or water supplies. A locked cabinet in a dry, ventilated space–like a utility room or shed–is usually the safest bet. Basement shelves work too, but only if there’s no risk of flooding.

Never pour leftovers down drains or toss them in regular garbage. If there’s a municipal drop-off depot for chemical waste–Calgary has a few–it’s worth the trip. Some retail outlets might take back unused stock, though it’s rare. Always read the label before assuming anything.

Empty containers aren’t harmless. Rinse them three times–yes, three–then puncture to prevent reuse. After that, check with your local waste facility for the right bin. Don’t guess. Guessing here can backfire.

And don’t stockpile. If you’re only using it once a year, maybe skip buying the industrial-sized jug. Smaller packages reduce the chance of leaks, contamination, or, well, forgetting what’s in that dusty old bottle.

One last thing–keep everything out of reach of kids and pets. A curious sniff is all it takes. Lock it up, label clearly, and check once in a while for expired products. Those can be more trouble than they’re worth.

Seal Entry Points Immediately

Block off cracks, holes, and gaps as soon as you spot them. Don’t wait. Rodents can squeeze through openings as small as a dime, and insects often need even less space. Use silicone caulk for narrow crevices. For larger voids, try steel wool or copper mesh–those materials are harder for animals to chew through.

Check door sweeps. If you can see daylight under a door, it’s not sealed. Replace worn-out sweeps or install thresholds to reduce the gap. Around windows, make sure screens are snug with no tears. A single rip can turn into a highway overnight.

Pay attention to utility lines. Where cables, pipes, or wires enter the house, there’s often a small unsealed area. Foam sealant works, but rodents can chew it. Combine it with wire mesh for better durability.

Don’t forget the attic and basement

These areas are easy to overlook, but they’re common access points. Look for daylight coming through the edges. If you see any, close them up. If not, give it a few minutes in the dark to be sure–light leaks can be subtle.

It’s a bit tedious, yes. But it’s probably the most reliable thing you can do upfront.

Seal Entry Points Immediately After Treatment

Block any gaps, cracks, or holes as soon as you’re done applying solutions–waiting even a day can invite re-infestation. Caulk around window frames, patch up screens, fit weatherstripping to doors. Small crevices, especially near baseboards or behind appliances, tend to be overlooked. Miss one, and it’s like leaving the back door open.

Focus on high-traffic areas. If you noticed droppings or chewed material in one spot, that’s where they’re slipping in. Expanding foam works well around pipes; steel wool helps near vents or garage corners. It’s not about overhauling the whole house–just plugging the exact routes they’ve used.

Double-check the garage and attic

These two places are often neglected. I once thought my attic was secure, but found a small gap under the eaves–just big enough. Closed it with mesh and never had another issue there. Same with garage corners: check where the drywall meets the concrete. It’s easy to assume they’re sealed when they’re not.

Skip decorative covers or flimsy tape. Go for long-term fixes. Silicone, mesh, wood filler–whatever fits. You don’t want to be doing this twice.

Avoiding Future Issues Through Maintenance and Hygiene

Seal gaps. Gaps under doors, cracks along baseboards, open vents – those are weekly invitations. Silicone caulk or weather stripping does more than save on energy; it blocks intruders too. Even quarter-inch openings are big enough for ants or mice.

Rinse recycling. You’d think a rinsed can doesn’t matter, but one sugary residue left overnight is often enough to draw in scouts. I learned that the hard way with a fruit fly outbreak that lasted a week.

Clean beneath and behind appliances. Crumbs slide behind the stove or fridge and sit untouched for months. That kind of buildup can attract roaches faster than you’d expect, especially in damp areas.

Store dry goods in airtight containers. Original packaging is rarely secure – think flour, rice, pet food. Glass jars with rubber seals or thick plastic tubs with locking lids are better. It’s not just about freshness; it’s prevention.

Take out the garbage before it’s full. If the lid doesn’t close all the way, odours escape. It’s enough of a signal to start trouble. And outdoor bins? Keep them several feet from the house if you can, and use lids with clasps.

Schedule routine inspections, even in newer homes. It’s a common question – Do I need pest control in Calgary for new house? The answer is yes, because construction sites stir up everything. Preventive sweeps can catch nesting sites early, especially in basements or attics that don’t get much attention.

Finally, stick with someone local and consistent. You want someone who remembers past issues, not someone different each visit. topgoogle.com about The Pest Control Guy is worth checking if you’re near Calgary – they’ve got strong reviews, and I’ve heard people mention their reliability more than once.

Seal Entry Points Immediately

Close up every gap, no matter how small. Mice can squeeze through openings as tiny as a dime. Insects? Even less. Walk around your property with a flashlight after sunset–light escaping through gaps means something else could slip in.

• Use silicone-based caulking for cracks in foundation walls or between siding panels. It lasts longer outdoors than acrylic options.
• Install door sweeps on all exterior entrances. Not the cheap foam kind–they break down fast. Solid rubber or bristle models hold up better.
• Check window screens for tears. Replace or patch them, even if the hole seems too small to matter. Bugs don’t need much space.
• Cover dryer vents with mesh. Metal is best–plastic ones crack in cold weather, especially in Calgary winters.
• Don’t forget attic vents or soffits. Birds, wasps, and rodents love those weak spots. Hardware cloth (¼-inch) works well there.

After sealing, monitor those spots. Snowmelt and seasonal shifting in older homes can reopen gaps. I check mine every spring–it’s a bit of a ritual now, like changing furnace filters. Keeps surprises to a minimum.

Dispose of Baits, Traps, and Chemicals Correctly

Seal used bait stations in a leak-proof plastic bag before tossing them in the garbage. Don’t just leave them lying around or toss them in a general bin–neighbourhood pets or wildlife could get into them.

Leftover solutions or empty containers? Bring them to a local hazardous waste drop-off, not your curbside bin. Most cities in Alberta, including Calgary, have collection points for this. Flushing liquids or rinsing them down the sink? Big mistake. Trace toxins can leach into water systems.

If you’ve used glue traps or snap traps, double-bag them before disposal. Avoid touching any remains with bare hands, even if they look dry. Use gloves, then wash thoroughly–hot water, soap, the whole bit. If it smelled off, that’s bacteria. You don’t want that near your kitchen or laundry.

Checklist: What Goes Where

Last Thought

If something seems too messy to deal with–or you’re just not sure what to do–it’s probably best to ask. A quick call to The City of Calgary’s 311 line might save a lot of trouble. Better safe than trying to scrub poison off your driveway later.

Choosing the Right Approach to Manage Unwanted Guests in Your Space

If you’re dealing with an infestation, it’s key to start with the least harmful method possible. Non-toxic solutions like diatomaceous earth or essential oils, for example, can work wonders for certain bugs. These alternatives are particularly useful in homes with children or pets, as they don’t introduce dangerous chemicals into the environment. However, don’t expect them to work overnight–it may take time for the results to become apparent.

If you prefer a more hands-on approach, sealing up entry points is a must. Check windows, doors, and even small cracks or gaps in your walls. Yes, it sounds tedious, but blocking these routes is one of the simplest ways to prevent the problem from escalating. In fact, many of these issues can be traced back to neglecting the basics of home maintenance.

Another thing to keep in mind is the right tools. Traps and baits can be surprisingly effective, but you’ll need to place them in the right spots. That means understanding the habits of the critters you’re trying to get rid of. Not all traps work for every situation–sometimes, a little trial and error is necessary. You’ll also want to avoid using too many chemicals indoors, unless you’re truly stuck. If you’re unsure, consult with a professional for guidance on what works best for your specific situation.